The illusion of perfect skin

I think that before I start writing about how to create the illusion of perfect skin. I need to give you some color theory explanation. The reason why I am showing you the image of the color wheel is so it is easier to explain.

 

To color correct something you need to know what complementary colors are. Complementary colors are colors that are opposite of each other on the color wheel (yellow - purple for example). Layering one complementary color over another nullifies that color. So say we have under eye circles that have a purple hue to them, the correct color to correct them with would be yellow.

The reason why I explain this is because before I do anything I start by color correcting the skin using green, orange and yellow. Use a very light hand, you are trying to lightly correct any imperfections not audition for Shrek. I use Shu uemura pro concealer for this.

Okay so now you have corrected the coloring, we use foundation. I am of the belief that foundation should match your skin tone and never be lighter nor darker than it. Match the color to the skin in the neck and not the face to avoid any obvious lines. You can use fingers, brushes and sponges to apply foundation. I use a combination of all three. 

My preferred foundation is actually a tinted moisturizer by becca cosmetics called luminous skin colour.

 I will first apply a thin layer all over the face. Starting in the middle and blending outward. I will apply up to 3 layers of foundation to areas that need it.

Once the foundation is done I will apply concealer to areas like under the eyes and anything that needs a little extra cover and I finish with a very light dusting of loose powder.

Andi and the iceberg

Check out the editorial with Andi Muise. Click here

What is in my skincare kit

Like I have said in an earlier post, I really wasn´t planning on telling anybody what kind of products are in my kit but I have been asked so many times recently what I use that I have decided to let everybody know what I really use and I can just reference everybody to here. Don´t you love being lazy.

I think one of the reasons I get booked is my skin (or at least that´s my assumption) because I keep hearing from clients how much they love how I leave the skin. I always start with severely prepping the skin. I use to work for Estée Lauder and Korres and both brands have always shown me that good skincare is key to creating perfect skin.

Cleansing: Prior to any type of makeup application I always clean the skin.

• SHU UEMURA CLEANSING OIL

I started using this cleanser and it became an instant hit with everybody. I even brought it back to Spain with me because so many people asked me for it. You apply it on dry skin and then add water, lather up and all the dirt and makeup washes away when you rinse it off. Amazing when the models need to leave with a clean face after the shoot. I swear it takes less than 5 minutes.
They have several formulations available I recommend you get the premium A/O.

• BIODERMA SENSIBIO H20

This cleansing water cleanses face and eyes. It even gets rid of anything waterproof applied to the eyes. I have never found anyone who has had a reaction to this. If I have no running water available I use this to clean the skin.

Special prep: If I have the time I will give the model skin an extra boost.

• KORRES WILD ROSE FACE MASK AND SERUM

The mask can cause a slight tingling sensation if you have extremely sensitive skin. Don´t freak out it´s normal. You leave the mask on for 5 minutes then rinse it off and apply the serum. AVOID THE EYES!!!!

Moisterizer:

• MALIN+GOETZ FACE MOISTERIZER

 Although it´s made for all skin types I usually use it on skin that has a tendency to be more oily.

• EMBRYOLISSE LAIT-CREME CONCENTRE

 This is the holy grail of all moisturizers. I used to use creme la mer before discovering this jewel. A fraction of the price and it calms, soothes and moisturizes the skin. If skin is really dry, it doubles up as a face mask and you can even use it as a makeup remover. Also because of it´s calming and soothing properties it makes a wonderful aftershave and aftersun.

Eyes and lips:

• WELEDA WILD ROSE EYE CREAM

My dear friend Semíramis recommended that I try this and although very skeptic in the beginning, this product has become a key element in my skin prep for the eyes.

• SENSAI EYELID BASE

Not so long ago Nadine forced me to buy this product and it has majorly rocked my world. It prepares the eyelid area and creates a perfect canvas.

• BURT´S BEES BEESWAX LIP BALM

Another Semíramis recommendation that I wasn´t all to sure about but I am very happy I listened. I prep the lips with this and I don´t need to rehydrate them for the rest of the shoot. Amazing stuff.


Keep in mind that I do use more products than this but these are the minimum of products I bring with me on shoots.
Hopefully the next post isn´t as long as this one but I kinda fear that it is gonna be....

It´s easy

I got to see the pictures from the editorial I shot with Sergi Fuster a couple of weeks ago. Here is a preview of said editorial.

Coming soon Andi Muise vs the titanic (aka beyond the sea)

At the end of summer and before leaving sunny Spain, I got to shoot with übermodel Andi Muise again. This was the second time we worked together and needless to say my Andification continued without halt.

We shot aboard the boat beyond the sea, a very luxurious yacht right beside Barcelona's marina. Sometimes I wished my life really was as glam as it seems. But unfortunately when the shoot rapped we all had to go to our homes but one can dream.